The History of Mascara

Hi beauties,

Today, mascara is the one product many women simply couldn’t do without. Though closely related to kohl, used for thousands of years, the mascara we recognise today is a relatively modern invention…

Origin Story

Long before commercial formulas, lashes were darkened using homemade blends: lampblack (created by holding a saucer over a flame), coal dust, burnt cork, ash and even elderberry juice.

Image: Theodore M. Davis Collection, Bequest of Theodore M. Davis, 1915

1830s | The House of Rimmel

Eugene Rimmel creates Superfine, the first non-toxic, commercially produced mascara, a portable blend of coal dust and petroleum jelly. Though messy, it revolutionises beauty, spreading across Europe and cementing “Rimmel” as a synonym for mascara in many languages.

Late 1800s–1917 | From Theatre to Everyday

Rimmel refines his formulas, evolving Water Cosmetique (originally a moustache and beard colour used in theatre) into one of the first solid block mascaras for lashes and brows. Across the Atlantic, T.L. Williams launches Maybelline’s Lash-Brow-Ine in 1917, reportedly inspired by his sister Mabel mixing petroleum jelly with burnt cork. Initially sold by mail order, it quickly becomes a nationwide staple.

Image: British Library

Early Hollywood

Makeup artist Max Factor develops a wax-based mascara for film - foil-wrapped, melted before use and dramatically effective on camera, but too heavy and clumpy for everyday wear.

Image: Mölndals stadsmuseum

1958 | The Game-Changer

Helena Rubinstein’s Mascara-Matic transforms application forever. A pen-like tube with an integrated wand replaces the old ‘spit and brush’ method, allowing for cleaner, more precise application.

1960s–70s | The Rise of the Modern Mascara

Spiral nylon brushes emerge, improving definition and separation. Maybelline’s Ultra Lash (1960) and Great Lash (1971) become some of the world’s best-selling beauty products.

Image: Israel Press and Photo Agency/Dan Hadani collection, National Library of Israel

1980s–90s | Quiet Evolution

While less visibly revolutionary, this era sees ongoing refinement in formulas, textures and performance.

2000s | Technology & Precision

German manufacturer GEKA pioneers molded brush technology (Moltrusion), combining rigid cores with flexible bristles to enhance separation and even product distribution. Launched in 2005 with major brands, it marks a new era in mascara engineering.

Image: Maria Morri

Today | Innovation at Speed

From curved, double-ended and heated wands to oscillating and rotating brushes, mascara continues to evolve. With over seventy new launches entering major beauty retailers each year, the pursuit of the perfect formula remains extremely competitive. Having developed many mascaras myself, including two number one global bestsellers, I know all too well just how fierce the competition is!

My own chapter to the story!

My award-winning* Kitten Lash Mascara represents the culmination of this innovation. Featuring a truly featherlight formula, it delivers weightless, soft, bouncy lashes—smoothly coating and stretching each lash so you can build your look throughout the day, from finely defined and separated to naturally full and fluffy.

Love, Lisa Xx