I can't stress enough the importance of a proper cleansing routine. Not removing make-up means congested skin which will lead to breakouts, puffiness around the eyes and fine lines – in short, proper cleansing ensures your skin looks younger and healthier for longer!
I never use wipes as I don't think that it's enough to simply wipe the surface of the skin. Instead, I believe you need to use lots of product and really work it into the make-up to make sure that it's being fully dissolved and removed. I also always double cleanse, once to remove make-up and twice to properly clean the skin. If you use your second cleanse as a time to really massage your face and neck this will also help to boost circulation, keeping your skin really healthy and glowing.
When removing your make-up, if you're wearing a bright lip colour I think it’s best to start with this to prevent it from smearing all over your face. Next, move onto the eyes, remembering that the surrounding skin is really thin and delicate, so you need to be especially gentle – there should be no rubbing or pulling on the skin.
The best and most efficient way to remove eye make-up is to soak a couple of pads in remover, then hold and pat them onto the eyes for a minute or so to soften and loosen the make-up. I do this in the film and you can see that all of my eye make-up comes off really quickly and easily in one sweep – false lashes included! – without any harsh rubbing or pulling.
Finally, take off your base. You can follow this with a quick rinse (I generally do this as I like the feel of water against my face after cleansing) and then your choice of toner (if you use one), serum and/or moisturiser. If you are using some kind of treatment facial wash (say for acne) use this in place of the second cleanse once all your make-up is off.
With the wide range of cleansing products out there, it can be tempting to spend a bit more on your skincare regime. But cleansers themselves shouldn’t be expensive if all they do is take off your make-up. The ones you can justify spending slightly more on are those that are more like treatments – any products which have high doses of vitamins or contain any special skin-boosting ingredients such as lactic acid. I have a lot of products like this that I use as a treatment once or twice a week, many of which I talk about in my Favourite Skin Products video.
I’ve used so many different kinds of cleansers so it’s really hard to narrow it down and talk about just a few, but these are my four current favourites:
Bioderma – Crealine (also known as Sensibio) H2O
I know that I’ve mentioned this product before (again in my Favourite Skincare Products video), but I’m using it again here because it’s one of my all time favourites! It’s a product that I’ve used for years and one that I always have in my kit as not only does it clean the skin really quickly, but it’s also extremely gentle so doesn’t aggravate skin, making it perfect to use when I’m working with models with different skin types, or if I’m doing a range of different looks and need to cleanse the model’s face in between each take.
Keraskin Esthetics – Huile Nudite
Oil cleansers are great to use on days when you’ve been wearing a lot of make-up and are also really effective at removing waterproof mascara – you can use it for your first cleanse and then follow with a lotion for your second. This one by Keraskin is slightly more expensive but, as I mentioned before, the formulation which is packed full of essential oils and omegas help justify the price. Plus it comes in a massive 400ml bottle so will last for ages, especially if you only use it when you are wearing lots of make-up. For days when you haven’t been wearing as much I also recommend their Lait cleansing milk – perfect for a deep down clean.
Shu Uemura also have an amazing range of oil cleansers which are suitable for all skin types. Their oils are really light so they leave your skin feeling really clean, refreshed and conditioned. www.shuuemura.co.uk
Alpha H – Balancing Cleanser
This is a brand which I’vestarted to really get into since trying their gorgeous facials. This Balancing Cleanser has a 3 in 1 action so removes all make-up including eye make-up, and it’s really light so leaves your skin feeling really fresh. Their Soothing and Calming Cleansing Gel is great if you have dry or sensitive skin. I can also strongly recommend their moisturisers and masks.
Purity Organic Skincare - Conditioning Cleansing Lotion - exclusive to Superdrug store nationwide and online
This is a new brand that I discovered quite recently and absolutely love. I think that it’s really important to try and use natural skincare and cleansers, and while this range is almost completely organic it’s got a really affordable price tag – most of the products are around £5-£8 which is so refreshing. Another great product in the range which I’ve been using is the Anti-aging Serum and Mask as a soothing face mask to hydrate my skin.
I've had lots of requests for this tutorial so I really hope you enjoy the film. Just remember that I’m wearing lots of make-up and so the routine is one that should only be carried out at night – you don’t need to go through this process in the morning. That is a different and much quicker kind of routine all together and another film in itself – so keep your eyes peeled!
Lisa Loves - The one about the make-up artist and the perfume
I met up with Mary Greenwell when we were both guests the Chanel couture show last year and she told me she was working on a perfume, my first reaction was wow, perfume not make-up?? As a legendary make-up artist I’d expected her to turn her hand to cosmetics but, typical of Mary, she doesn’t do what everyone expects and very much walks her own path.
Mary has played quite an influential part in my career. First as an inspiration when as a student I would pour over 80’s issues of Vogue which had Mary’s handiwork (usually on Cindy Crawford) on the cover and later when I started assisting her at London and Paris fashion weeks at the start of my career. During one of those times Mary gave us assistants a little speech that would shape my priorities, on a personal level, forever – (I’ll tell you about that another time).
The thing about Mary is that she’s an absolute perfectionist, her work completely flawless – she does Cate Blanchett for all her covers and red carpet appearances (enough said!) and, although many tried before her, it was Mary who turned the late Princess Diana’s look from 80’s Sloane ranger to modern fashion icon (see below).
Mary has impeccable taste in every aspect of her life, so I was expecting nothing less than the best from this her first perfume. The scent called Plum and has been two years in the making in partnership with fourth generation perfumer Francois Robert and is a Classic Chypre with a modern twist. Top notes of Plum, Blackcurrent, Peach, Bergamot and Lemon Blend, heart notes of Gardinia, Tuberose Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute, Rose Absolute and Jasmine Absolute with a base of Precious Woods, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Amber and White Musk.I noticed when I first tried it that is changed almost completely every minute until it finally settled into the base notes quite a while later.
The packaging is so much fun. Vibrant pink and green (a favourite make-up colour combo of mine) which reflects Marys love of colour and the classic simplicity of the bottle makes this a cult classic in the making.
This fragrance has a lot of personality and a very distinctive signature, reminiscent of the great classics. Fragrance is a very personal thing so I can’t promise you’ll like it but if you’re tired of mass produced fragrances and want something more niche, special and a bit different, head over to your nearest House Of Fraser where it is exclusively available, and get spritzed.
Mary is now on twitter so tweet her at https://twitter.com/MaryGreenwell
Eau de Parfum - (100ml) £90 (50ml) £60
Solid Parfum – (3g) £70
Purse Spray – (50ml) £25
Scented Candle – (180g) £36
Cate Blanchett photographed for British Vogue by Regan Cameron
HRH Diana Princesss of Wales photographed by Mario Testino
Make up by Mary Greenwell
Making up Gorgeous Anna J in Portofino
This month's issue of Glamour magazine features a gorgeous beauty story where I gave the make-up a sexy, womanly, grown-up spin - think red lips, black liner and creamy, flawless skin. I was lucky enough to work with the beautiful Anna Jagodzinska, who you’ll probably recognise as the face of Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue fragrance campaign. We shot the story in the equally beautiful Portofino Italy, which was the perfect backdrop for the looks I was creating.
How To Wear Dark Lipsticks - And Look Good
Have a look at my original blog post for more information on this trend.
Trend - Dark Lipsticks
It's no secret that the key lipstick trend for this season is the strong, dramatic dark lip, a look that was seen all over the catwalks, from shimmering deep reds at Givenchy to rich plums at Dolce and Gabbana and bruised purples at Proenza Schouler.
While these dark lips looked effortlessly gorgeous on the models, in everyday life it can be a difficult look to nail, especially for those of us who wouldn’t normally make much of a statement with our lip colour or those with thinner lips– the prospect of donning such a bold shade can be slightly daunting!
I've filmed a tutorial which will hopefully show you the easiest and most wearable way to achieve this statement look which I’ll be posting shortly, but for now I wanted to showcase a few of my current favourite dark lipsticks.You can see in the photo above I’ve swatched 6 of my favs, from L-R,
- Rimmel Lasting Finish in 123 True Vintage,
- Jemma Kidd Make-Up School Ultimate Lipstick Duo in 01 Cleopatra,
- Dior Addict Lipcolour in 989 Pinstripe Plum,
- YSL Rouge Pur Couture in 08 Belle de Rose,
- 17 Lasting Fix Lipstick in New Black
- Clinique Almost Lipstick in 06 Black Honey.
Links to all of these are at the end of the post.
With so much choice out there, it’s really important to choose the right shade for your skin tone in order to get the most out of the colour. The rose-wine Rimmel shade is perfect for pale skin and a great introduction to colour as the formula isn’t too heavy – so while it gives a gorgeous finish, the end result doesn’t make too much of a massive statement.
Jemma Kidd and the YSL shade are good all-rounders, suiting the majority of skin tones but especially those with olive-dark skin as the red base gives the colour a real vibrancy which looks amazing against darker skin. The Jemma Kidd lipstick has the added bonus of a double-ended stick with a balm on one end to prepare your lips for colour.
The Dior would look great on those with light-medium skin tones. This is a great colour as while it does contain red its not too red, likewise purple so its not overly dramatic. The sheerer texture makes it really easy to apply and allows you to build up the colour to suit.
The 17 colour works really well on pale-light medium skin as a dramatic stain, great if you want to make a bold statement on a night out. For the price the colour really delivers.
Finally the Clinique shade is great for any of you who are scared of colour – its sheer formula gives great colour without looking over-the-top, and the glossy finish is perfect for anyone with small, thin lips.
If your lips are a bit on the thin side use a matching lip pencil to cheat the shape. Make sure you choose one which exactly matches the tone of the lipstick and soften the edges so it's not too harsh. I use Clinique 'Plummy' in the video which I think worked really well. You can either apply the pencil after the lip colour OR as a correcting base all over before.
A really important thing to remember when trying out this dark lips look is blush – essential unless you want to channel the gothic look! Choose your blusher wisely – using one with the same base tones as your lipstick will not only stop you from looking washed out but also helps to tie the whole look together. So a berry-coloured blush will look great against red-based lipsticks, while one with pinky violet undertones will work really well with more purpley lip colours.
Of course one of the easiest ways to ensure that you get the look right is to use your lipstick as a cheek stain (take a look at my "4 ways with lipstick" video tutorial to see the best way to do this) - just remember that you can only use this technique when you’ve used a liquid foundation for your base – using a lipstick as a blush over any powder formulations will make your base patchy.
Keep your eyes peeled for the video tutorial which I’ll be posting over the next couple of days. In the film you’ll find tips on applying dark colours to thinner lips, different application techniques and see me apply two of my favourite shades.
Inspiration - Vogue Models Book...First Look!
You’ve probably already spotted the cover (the amazing Craig McDean picture of Kate Moss) on one of the many blogs eagerly anticipating its October release date, but this is the first time anyone has actually been able to show what lies within!
Vogue Model: The Faces of Fashion, edited by Robin Derrick and Robin Muir, is an A-Z catalogue of some of the most recognisable faces in fashion and is set to become a firm coffee table favourite (it already has pride of place on mine!) and an essential stocking filler for Christmas.
One of the best things is that it spans a 90 year history, giving us an insight into the lives of many of the models who, while their faces are instantly recongisable, we actually know very little about. Kate, Agyness and Naomi may be household names but, in the days pre-supermodel, and the days when modeling was barely considered a viable let alone glamorous career choice, we didn’t know anything about the girl in the photograph. How old were they? Where were they born? Who were they married to?
Vogue Model tells us the unknown stories about these iconic women – who would have guessed that Lud would end up traveling the world not as a model, but with the circus as the wife of a lion tamer? Or that Maggie Rizer’s career would end after her stepfather gambled away most of her $7 million fortune?
Some of the stories are funny, some, like Maggie’s, are sad, but all of them are truly fascinating – I’ve been dipping in and out of it since I’ve had my hands of it and am constantly amazed at the things I discover and learn each time.
It’s also great as the images allow us to see how the ideal of beauty has changed, evolved and, in some cases, come full circle over the past 90 years. From the bare-faced chic of Audrey Marnay in 1997 to the wide-eyed iconic beauty of Twiggy throughout the swinging sixties, these women embody the beauty, trends, and feeling of the time.
I was thrilled to discover that many of the photographs that were chosen are ones where I have done the make-up. My first job with Vogue was with Cecelia Chancellor (who’s also included in the book) in New York in 1993 and since then I have worked on numerous stories with the magazine, so reading the book and seeing many of the girls I have made up over the years brings back many happy memories.
I remember so well shooting this picture (below) of the incredibly beautiful Bridgette Hall. The photographer Robert Erdmann and I had a major crush on Bridgette (who wouldn’t??) and had worked with her many times previously. When the Vogue assignment to work with her again came in we were thrilled because the brief was to shoot her in her home town. We had two days to shoot her in all her favourite Dallas hangouts. This photograph was taken in the locker rooms at the Cowboys stadium and we ended the shoot at her favourite theme park screaming all over the rollercoaster! Brilliant fun.
I remember the picture of Audrey Marnay (also below) very well too, we shot it really late at night down on the embankment right next to the Thames (I remember it was really cold!). We were all laughing because photographer Regan Cameron, who’s not only fantastic at his job but also hilarious, was doing his now legendary Austin Powers impression (the movie had just come out), I don’t know how Audrey managed to look so composed in the shot!
I haven’t seen many of these girls for years so it’s a pleasure to see all their extraordinary beauty together in one place.
Do you have any favourite models? Who’s your all time favourite? I’d love to know.
Vogue Model is released on 7th October but you can pre-order at Amazon now. www.amazon.co.uk/Vogue-Model-Faces-Fashion/dp/1408702533/
Trend - Modern Heavy Natural
A very modern take on the early 90's 'brown everywhere' trend which is back with a vengeance this Autumn/Winter. Earthy tones combined with flawless skin, highlighting and sculpting makes this look universally gorgeous and flattering. Hope you like it! x