Biba and Beyond
I was thrilled when Martin Pel, the fashion and textiles curator of the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, contacted me earlier this year to ask if I would consider lending some of my Vintage Biba Make-up Collection for a Barbara Hulanicki exhibition. Anyone who knows me knows I’m an obsessive collector of vintage make-up and particularly original Biba - I even have the shop fittings! Martin had seen the videos I created using my collection on this site and shared them with Barbara, who thought they were great. They also suggested I made a special make-up video for the show. Barbara asked me to re-create the look all the girls in the Biba shop used to wear in the mid 1960s.
The Temple Of Tilbury - Guest Artist
Last week I welcomed to the house of Eldridge a very wonderful, special and important guest - the fabulous Charlotte Tilbury.
I've been wanting to film some tutorials with guest top makeup artists for ages now, and was honoured to have Charlotte here - I couldn't have asked for a better first guest!
Charlotte and I first met years ago when we worked together as assistants backstage at the fashion shows. I absolutely love her work - she has created so many iconic looks on so many beautiful women including the great supermodels like Kate, Lara, Gisele et al along with Kristen Stewart, Gwen Stefani. Penelope Cruz, Adele and many more. Check out Charlottes Pinterest Board of covers shes worked on, it's fabulous!
She also worked on the amazing Louis Vuitton ad campaigns with Jennifer Lopez looking completely chic and glamorous - these images definitely show off her skill in using make-up in a completely transformative way. The past few years she has collaborated with Tom Ford on his beautiful make-up line - which I am a massive fan of. She also does the looks for all his campaigns
Charlotte was born in Ibiza and you can definitely see that super-cool, creative and slightly bohemian air about her (I'm obsessed with her trademark fiery red hair!). Her father was a painter so creativity is obviously in her genes but she's always said that her love of clothes and high, high heels meant that she always wanted to do something in the fashion industry.
Charlotte's make-up style is sexy, cool and super-glamorous, she's in constant demand and rightly so! I was SO lucky to grab her for an afternoon to film this look and have a catch up. I'm so excited for you all to see it, and of course let me know what you think!
Charlotte is at the Fashion Shows in Milan this week so follow her on twitter to see all looks and find out which products she's using
Charlotte will be launching her blog later this year so look for that!
Kate Moss Vogue Cover Look with Charlotte Tilbury
To hear the idea behind this video watch my 'News' video here :
This is my first 'Guest Artist' video. Charlotte and I spoke about doing something before the summer but it wasnt until after summer holidays and right before New York fashion week at the beginning of September that we were both free to film this! Everyone is so incredibly busy with shoots etc but I hope to have a guest artist every month (or two depending on schedules!). Hope you enjoy!
Read my blog post about my Guest Artist Charlotte, her work and how to find out more here
Inspiration: Buffalo Girl - Talisa Soto
Last night I worked on the make-up for the Osman S/S13 show. I always love working with Osman - his clothes are beautifully chic and elegant but with sex appeal.
When I met up with him to discuss the make-up for this show he showed me a photo of the girl he had in mind when designed the new collection (see her on his mood board above) - as soon as I looked at her, the beautiful Talisa Soto in her 80's incarnation as the original 'Buffalo' girl immediately jumped into my head. Buffalo was an idea, look and style created by stylist Ray Petri which definied the look of 80's youth culture in the UK. I created the Black and White moodboard above to take to the show.
Talisa was my number one girl-crush as a teenager – she was the absolute epitome of cool. Born in Brooklyn New York to Puerto Rican parents, Talisa starting modelling at 15 and quickly came one of the top models of the 80s. It was when she started shooting in London with the late fashion stylist Ray Petri, often with her boyfriend at the time Nick Kamen (from that 80s Levi's ad in the laundrette!), that she became known as the 'Buffalo Girl'
This sexy, androgynous look (Talisa and Nick essentially looked really similar) that played on street culture was the complete antithesis of the matte black, bold, bright, power-dressing aesthetic of the time.
News - Guest Artists
I'm very exctied to announce that I have my first Guest Artist Video going up tomorrow. Its someone hugely talented and successful who will be demonstrating the make-up on one of their iconic cover shoots! Stay tuned X
My Visit To The Berlin Kryolan Make-Up Factory
In July, I was invited to the Kryolan make-up factory in Berlin to celebrate the re-launch of its brand and flagship store. I was really pushed for time and needed to be in New York for a job the next day but invitations to visit make-up factories are to me what catnip is to cats, simply irresistible, so I had to make it work! It’s the part of my job I think I like most – something to do with the synergy of creativity and technology (and the smell of the greasepaint) that I’m a little addicted to.
I remember using Kryolan a lot when I was starting out as a make-up artist. That was in the days before brands which offered vivid, strange colours, dense pigments and unusual textures like MACpro and Illamasqua (which is made by Kryolan) were so widely available.
I still religiously use a couple of their products for more creative editorial shoots – their aqua colours, dermacolours and greasepaints. I’m also a big fan of the Charles Fox pro make-up supply store in London’s Covent Garden, which was acquired by Kryolan in 1992 as the main stockist of their products in the UK. I wasn’t however aware of what they’d been doing over the past few years so this trip was a great eye-opener for me.
The brand was born in the 1940s, founded by Arnold Langer, a chemistry student who wanted to combine his two loves, science and theatre, by developing a make-up line for theatre. Since then, it’s developed make-up and colours for thousands of theatrical and film productions across the world (including the famous Shrek green!).
Kryolan really wants to reintroduce themselves to colleges and make-up artists in-training to show that, although theatrical and prosthetic make-up is still very much at the heart of their business, thats not all they are about. I was really surprised by and impressed with a lot of the new formulations I discovered which have super-light, fine textures, brought in for HD (they were the first brand to provide HD make-up to artists in 2006). I especially loved the make-up blender, a really useful multi-tasking product that you can use to make other make-up products sheerer and more blendable (due out in October).
Over the past 15 years I’ve spent a lot of time in various high tech make-up factories in Europe and the Far East and I thought I’d seen it all but Kryolan was all together different from anything I’ve experienced. The factory itself was amazing – it was a lot more home spun than many of the slick, marketing focused factories I go to regularly. There were buckets of pigment everywhere and everyone working there seemed so happy, friendly and inviting. You could definitely sensel the family atmosphere. You can see from my photos the bright coral lipsticks that were made, very simply, in front of me. Look also at how labour-intensive some of their processes are. I couldn’t quite believe that all of their hot pouring is done by hand – even into those teeny tiny lipstick and DermaColor palettes I’ve used in my kit for years! Not a job you'd want to be put on after a particularly heavy night! Everyone was using identical, quaint GDR standard milk jugs from East Germany which are sourced from local flea markets as they have found them to be the most accurate for hot pouring – incredible!