Keira Knightley Red Carpet
I was really pleased to be asked to work with Keira on the press junket and world premiere of Anna Karenina. As well as being a beautiful face to make-up, I’ve been excitedly looking forward to seeing this movie.
Keira's stylist Camilla showed me the beautiful premier dress on the first day, so I had time to think about a look that would work well. The Chanel couture dress was a dream! Pale rose pink, feminine, pretty and perfect for Keira. The pewter belt added a little unexpected texture and helped me to shape the make-up.
I wanted to do a soft, pale and pretty make-up that had a romantic feel but was careful to add strength around the eyes so the overall look didn’t end up looking insipid or washed out against the dress - a fine balance! Above all the make-up needed to be elegant and flatter Keira's naturally beautiful face.
I started with a flawless base; Kiera has gorgeous skin, so this wasn’t a difficult challenge by any means! I used Perfection Lumiere in 10 Beige, applied in thin layers using a brush to really buff into the skin.
I also applied the concealers Éclat Lumiere (20 Beige Clair) and Lift Lumiere (10 Beige Lumiere) around her eyes and on the high points of her face to highlight and shape.
After a light dusting of Poudre Universelle Libre in 20 Clair I went onto eyes.
I began with a perfect liquid line along the upper lashes using Ecriture De Chanel - 10 Noir. I was careful to keep the liner extremely thin at the inner corner and only building up from around a third of the way along. I softened the line slightly using the powder shadow Ombre Essentielle in Ebony. At the outer corner I lifted and elongated the liner into a small kitten flick. I washed a mixture of the two shades in Ombres Contraste Duo in Gris - Subtil across Keiras eyelids, mixing it until it was a very soft shimmery silver/grey. I also added the pale pink Ombre Essentielle - 76 Liberty at the socket line to blend and soften. Underneath the lower lashes I used the Duo again, to add some softly smokey definition. A blush of the shimmery pink Liberty at the inner corner and Stylo Yeux Waterproof - 10 Ebene along the lower waterline completed the eye look. I then added lots of Inimitable Intense Mascara - 10 Noir and a few individual lashes by Liz Martins at the outer edge of the upper lashes.
The eyes had enough drama so brows were lightly powdered using Le Sourcil De Chanel 20 Brun for a soft, flattering effect.
For cheeks I dusted Joues Contraste in Rose Initiale 72 mainly to the apples of the cheeks for a fresh flush of colour. I used a large brush, swirling very lightly so the blush would feel like it was coming from within with no visible edges.
Lips were shaped with Le Crayon Levres in Natural 34 and the beautifully chic and elegant lipstick, Rouge Allure in Evanescente 88 finished off the look to perfection.
When I said goodbye to Keira at the end of the after, after party (many hours later!) her make-up was still looking fresh and flawless - I was very happy!
Make-up For The Boys!
Over the past 10 years there has been a quiet revolution going on in our bathrooms. Initially, strictly the preserve of the metrosexual, it’s now gaining momentum and men in their thousands are tentatively reaching for the 'make-up'.
A recent UK study showed that nearly half of British men steal their girlfriends products, 47% stating they would steal their partners lip balm, 12% their concealer and 8% are using their fake tan. Statistics indicate that men are taking more interest in their appearance than ever before and it's predicted the global male grooming market will rise to more than $33 billion by 2015 (Global Industry Analysts).
So it is no wonder the barometer of all that is cool in men’s fashion and grooming, Mr. Tom Ford, will be launching his new range of male ‘make-up’ this November. A modern day Beau Brummel, Tom is never knowingly under groomed. He is quoted as saying “I don’t think it has ever been done properly” and from what I've seen of his range he's (as usual) right on the money.
To protect the coveted contents of our make-up bags, it may be worth arming ourselves with a little product knowledge to help the men in our lives navigate their way around this brave new world.
Most guys have a real aversion to the word make-up as it holds too many female connotations. So ‘coverage’, ‘tinted’, ‘brightening’ and 'camouflage’ feel so much more male friendly.
Simple, clean lines, functional and monochromatic tend to be what men are attracted to when it comes to product design. Whilst us girls can get super excited by the latest fancy, colourful palette, for most men it’s a turn off.
Not surprisingly, the most popular male 'make-up' product is concealer - and why shouldn't men join us girls in the right to conceal a late night or a temporary blemish? The main thing to avoid is anything that's too light reflective - men sporting the Kim Kardashian 'reverse panda' look is just wrong!! Mens skin tends to be thicker and rougher than women's so anything too thick or drying will be too visible. So look for sheer, textures that don't appear too light and reflective under the eye.
A good under eye concealer for guys is Murad's Hybrids Eye Lift Perfector (now sadly discontinued) as it's completely imperceivable on the skin and doesn't contain any glittery light reflective particles. Another good option, for the same reasons, is Dior's Hydra Life BB Eye Cream a tinted treatment which instantly brightens dark circles.
In terms of application, less is definitely more. Apply only where under eye dark shadows appear, gently patting and blending into the skin with the ring finger to ensure light pressure. The most important thing is that it looks natural.
For blemish concealing it's best to apply a tiny amount with a concealer brush and blend in. But as this may be a step too far, fingers work fine too, just apply a small amount to the required areas and blend so no obvious lines appear around the edges.
A great concealing product for men is Perricone's MD No Concealer Concealer as it's very thin and easy to blend. It smooths and softens imperfection on the face and under the eye area without sitting on top of the skin making it obvious. For blemish prone skin, Murad's Acne Treatment Concealer Stick (now sadly discontinued) is good as it treats and heals with 2% exfoliating Salicylic Acid. For drier skin the creamy consistency of Recipe For Men's Liquid Concealer contains soothing Vitamin E so will cover and hydrate.
The trick to covering blemishes successfully on any face - male or female - is getting a really convincing colour match. As most of the products mentioned above only come in a couple of shades a concealer palette like Sonia Kashuk's Hidden Agenda will give you the option of custom blending from four shades to get an exact match. Don’t judge the colour by testing on the back of your hand as the skin on your face is very different.
Adding a healthy glow
Tinted Moisturiser is a great way to naturally even out skin texture quickly. Apply like any moisturiser ensuring its applied all over the face and blended well on the jaw to avoid dreaded tide marks. Check the eyebrows, beard or stubble for any left over product and gentle wipe off with a tissue or Q-tip. Lab Series BB Tinted Moisturiser is a good one and the packaging is really masculine too.
Clear wash off Bronzing gel works great as most of them are easy to apply and don’t contain shimmer. Apply a small amount onto moisturised skin and blend into all areas in the face, down the neck and right up past the ears so no tide lines are visible. Tom Ford's Bronzing Gel is fantastic.
For those guys who are not quite ready to move onto make-up but are already using facewash and moisturiser, treatment masks are the next step. Two of my favourites for men are Dermologica's Multivitamin Power Recovery Masque suitable for all skin types and Murad's Acne Clarifying Mask which really clears out the pores. For a cheaper alternative try Superdrug's Men's Licorice Mud Mask.
I personally don’t like to see men sporting glossy, shiny lips, but a nicely moisturised and healthy looking mouth is great. Kiehls Facial Fuel Non shine Lip Balm is a killer product for guys as it has a moisturising but matte finish.
We are living in the age of the selfie. Open pores and greasy shine do not photograph well so mattifying primers/moisturisers are perfect for men as on average their skin is x3 oilier than womens. Most brands now make this type of product. For a good general pore and fine line blurrer try Benefit’s The POREfessional it suits all skin tones and types and gives a smoother look to the skin. For acne/blemish prone skin the active ingredients in Dermalogica’s Clearing Mattifier will eliminate shine, regulate oil production, prevent blackhead build up and give an all-day matte finish. It also contains Vitamin A for anti aging. Another favourite of mine for large open pores is Dr Brant - Pores No More. Available in clear and tinted versions it regulates oil whilst giving skin an almost airbrushed velvety finish. For a quick touch up on the go, Shiseido's Pureness Oil-Control Blotting Papers are quick and practical.
My pet peeve, the overly groomed and excessively plucked brow. Encourage the man in your life to follow the old adage of less is more. A tiny touch of tidying between the nose and some careful minimal pruning is all thats needed. Tweezerman's Slant Tweezers.
Personally I think any other 'make-up' i.e. blusher, mascara etc doesn’t look good on a man (unless he's a theatre actor or drag queen of course!). As the owner of a man whose idea of grooming is shower gel and shaving foam ..... I guess there will always be a whole section of the male population for whom this level of preening is simply unacceptable.
Have you noticed any of your skincare, beauty products and make-up migrating to your mans side of the bathroom?
Gallery Update: LOVE Magazine Covers
Here are the covers I worked on with megastar photographers Mert and Marcus for the new issue of LOVE Magazine. There are 6 covers in total, the sixth featuring THE Minnie Mouse herself who arrived at the shoot straight from Disneyland Paris with her entourage all made up and ready to model! Each girl wore a set of Minnie ears made by different designers exclusively for LOVE .
All images are from the new LOVE Magazine Issue 10 which features loads of amazing fashion stories (including a few more I worked on).
Edie Campbell - wearing Minnie ears by Loewe.
Edie's make-up look was all about the super pouty 'cartoon' red lips. I kept her skin very natural looking using Chanel's Vitalumiere Aqua, applying Clinique's Airbrush Concealer and Laura Mercier's - Secret Camouflage which were just neccessary to conceal. A little Chanel's Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder was applied around the lips and sides of the nose.
On to lips.... I applied No7 - Precision Lips Pencil in Fire all over the lips first, drawing a new, bigger shape. Over the top I applied MAC Lipstick in Ruby Woo using a lip brush and then finished off patting MAC's Pro Pigment in Basic Red all over the lips with a slightly brighter red pigment powder into the centre.
For cheeks I used Chanel's Creme Blush in Affinite 65 a super bright reddish pink to give a flushed cheek and complete Edies, cute look.
Georgia May Jagger wearing Minnie ears by Miu Miu
I used minimal amounts of Giorgio Armani's Luminous Silk Foundation , Clinique's Airbrush Concealer and Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage to even out Georgia's skin before applying Tom Ford's Shade And Illuminate in Intensity One to give a very sculpted, cut cheekbone.
Eyes were swiped with a pop of Kryolan - UV-Dayglow Aqua Colour in Orange all over the lids (again in a slightly carttoonish shape) and Kryolan's Blusher UV-Dayglow in Mandarin a chalky fluro powder, was washed over the top to give a hyper real, larger than life feel. To balance the dayglow orange I applied L'Oreal's Super Liner Gel Intenza in Pure Black 01 to Georgia's upper waterline and defined her lashes with Dior's Diorshow Extase in Black Extase 090.
Royal Ballet Inspired Makeup Tutorial with Roberta Marquez
A fun day making up my friend Roberta Marquez, principal dancer at the Royal Ballet resulted in this dramatic, Bollywood/ Arab/ Classic Ballet make-up mash up! Hanging out in Roberta's predominantly pink dressing room backstage is like being in a little girls dream….. right down to the pink TV and Audrey Hepburn videos. Hope you enjoy it X
Shades used (plus similar, lower priced alternatives)
Dior 5 Couelours designer - Pink Design 808
Chanel IIusion D'Ombre - Fantasme 81
Bobbi Brown - Lip Liner - Ballet Pink
Chanel's - Le Blush Creme De Chanel - Affinite 65
Laura Mercier - Secret Camouflage - SC2
MAC - Eye Kohl - Fascinating
L'Oreal - Glam Shine 6h - Forever Nude 103
My 'Zero Make-Up' Holiday Skincare Essentials
It’s been almost 2 weeks since I’ve worn any kind of make-up - I haven’t even curled my eyelashes, which is unheard of for me! Whilst I do have similar days at home, I don’t ever carry on for this long.
I arrived at the original Mayr Clinic in Austria 12 days ago for my annual detox/re-charge and decided to not bother with the small but perfectly formed bag of make-up I’d packed. During the detox process you have days when you feel and look absolutely dreadful and in previous years I’ve worn a little make-up, mainly eyelash stuff, to cheer myself up– but this year I thought I’d have a complete make-up detox. I’ve tried to keep my skincare routine simple too (for me) and after basic cleansing morning and night, here's what I narrowed it down to:
During the day:
After cleansing I have been using Time Bomb Complexion Cocktail with a shot of B12. I thought this would be a good thing to pack as during the first week of the detox process you look like death warmed up. I suffer the effects of sugar deprivation including headaches, sleeping badly, feeling generally horrible and looking like a zombie. This product contains B vitamins, brown algae, ginseng and 12 amino acids in addition to one of my all time favourite ingredients, hyaluronic acid which helps skin look immediately fresher and more plumped. The other thing that attracted me was that it’s non greasy and feels just like water, perfect for my oily T zone in baking hot weather. I just poured it into the palm of my hands, rubbed them together and then smoothed and gently patted it in all over. I’ve used it after every shower and swim too.
Indoors I’ve stuck to just using the Complexion Cocktail but whenever outside (I’ve done at least 3+ hours hiking a day since I’ve been here….argh!) I’ve added my all time favourite holiday facial sunblock Institut Esthederm's Photo Reverse. Whilst I don’t think this product gets rid of existing pigmentation it definitely prevents it developing and increasing and stops any new pigmentation forming. I’ve used it for 10+ years and still balk at the price but for skin like mine that’s prone to moles, pigmentation and general brown spots, it’s been a lifesaver. The consistency is a bit greasy for my oily-ish (in summer) skin to be honest but I don’t care. I’m much more interested in the long term benefits than looking perfectly matte on holiday. During the summer in the UK when I’m working, wearing make-up and going in and out of the sun, I don’t tend to use it….. but for holidays and trips to sunny countries its essential for me. I apply it to my face, neck, chest and the back of my hands (prevention is better than cure!) and re-apply every 2+ hours. It ran out today – thank god I’m leaving tomorrow!
On my body outdoors I’ve been using The Organic Pharmacy Cellular Protection Sun Cream in SPF30 - WHICH I STUPIDLY FORGOT TO INCLUDE IN THE PHOTOGRAPH! It’s a natural mineral sunscreen with good old titanium oxide and zinc oxide plus micronized minerals and soothing ingredients like Aloe and Rose Hip (it smells lovely). It also contains nourishing Shea Butter and Calendula. It needs a good massage on application as it’s quite thick but once on I have found it to be perfectly sweat proof on my long hikes.
In the evening:
My new obsession is Sunday Riley’s Disrobe Body Lotion which I’ve been applying every evening after my shower. Initially I was attracted to the lactic acid in the ingredients list as it's my favourite ingredient ever but the delicious smell, similar to a lemon meringue pie has also been a huge plus point – when you’re a sugar addict deprived of your drug you’ll do anything! After about 4-5 nights I found my body skin was feeling a lot softer and was noticeably smoother (so much so my masseuse here commented). I can’t tell you how many boxes this product has ticked for me during my time here. First the sweet smell (its made up for all the delicious puddings I’ve missed) and the great results. After 12 nights use, my body skin feels very firm and smooth. The combination of the exfoliating and firming effects of the Lactic Acid, cell renewing Yeast Extract and Phosphate and the moisturizing properties of Shea Butter, Urea and Glycerin (still the best humectant out there in my books) have worked a treat. It also contains something called NV-5 Native American Botanical Base which claims to detoxify and rejuvenate the skin. I must admit I know nothing of that but in this case, I’ll go with it.
I’m not a night cream person, preferring to use either nothing or a serum. For this trip I went back to basics with the now cult Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair. It launched more than 25 years ago and was revolutionary at that time for its use of skin plumping hyaluronic acid in a large dose. That coupled with its unique texture and innovative brown bottle made it an instant hit which it remains to this day. It had a ‘facelift’ in 2009 when new ingredients were added to bring it up to date and if you are someone who hates the idea of heavy night creams and just want a good, solid, moisture binding, repairing treatment you cant go too far wrong with this.
Finally, my only concession to ‘make-up’ has been glossy lips and brows courtesy of Rodial’s Glam Balm Lip. It also contains hyaluronic spheres (can you see a theme developing here) and rose wax which gives it its delicious scent.
CHANEL - Avant-Première de Chanel Collection
To view the video click here.
Here is a short video I made for Chanel using their new Avant-Premiere collection, which features the new more densely pigmented Rouge Coco Shine lipsticks and some great nail polishes. All the shades and names are inspired by Gabrielle Chanels artistic collaborations with the cinema. I'm using the new shade 'Suspense' to create this look. If you are a chanel fan, take a look its a great look for the weekend. Have a good one wherever you are are and whatever you are doing!
Gorgeous Smokey Eye With Glossy Lips
Stephanie loves make-up but rarely wears any as she doesnt feel confident with application. So I invited her to the House of Eldridge for a make-up session and let Stephanie choose the look! She asked for a glamorous, 70's Studio 54 inspired make-up, something that Diana Ross or Bianca Jagger would have worn. I've kept it wearable modern and hopefully perfect for a make-up novice like Stephanie X
For my tutorial on how to apply individual fake lashes click here.
Stephanie's Website - http://www.stephaniesimon.co.uk/
Shades used (plus some similar, lower priced alternatives)
YSL - Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation – B80 and BD60
Nars - Radiant Creamy Concealer - Amande
Tom Ford - Shade And Illuminate - Intensity Two
Nars - Blush - Seduction
If you're outside of the UK and 17's Instant Glow Bronzing Rocks is not avaliable to you Physicians Formula Happy Booster Glow & Mood Boosting Illuminating Bronzing Veil in Bronzer is a great alternative.
L'Oreal - Super Liner Gel Intenza - Pure Black 01
MAC - Lip Pencil - Chesnut