Quick and Simple 60's eye
After doing Madeline's foundation (click here to see the film) , I did a quick look on her. I chose to do a clean and simple 60's eye - inspired by her amazing eyes - a fun look that's not too tricky to pull off. The eye shadow is pretty simple, although the lashes take a bit of practice. If you don't want to wear the fake lashes underneath, then just pile on the mascara - or for more help applying individual and strip lashes see my video on lashes. You can see how, by drawing attention to her gorgeous eyes, it also helps to detract attention away from her skin problems. Of course you don't have to follow a 60s theme, but I thought this was a really fun look for her.
Acne/Blemish Covering Make-up
I've had a lot of requests from people who suffer from acne asking me to film a tutorial on the best way to cover their skin with make-up, so I hope that all of you who have been holding out for it find it useful.
With the help of my gorgeous (and brave to be filmed in super HD with no make-up!) model Madeline, this film shows you how I do it, and follows the way that I used make-up to cover my own acne when I had it in my 20s. It's also the way I make-up any models or celebrities I work with who have bad skin conditions.
One of the most important things to remember is that very few people actually need 100 per cent coverage. When I was in Japan working for Shiseido I designed a range of make-up for the brand which I then had to present in front of all of the company directors. The model that they brought in for me to make up arrived caked in foundation and I really panicked as I presumed she must have really bad skin if she was covering it up so much - I thought that they must have chosen her specifically to test my skills, and the products I had created, to the max!
Yet when I removed her make-up I saw that the only flaws to her skin were some small patches of pigmentation on both cheeks - that was it. Yet she truly thought that she had really awful skin. When I asked her what percentage of her skin she thought that she needed to cover she said 80 per cent, when really it was closer to 20.
This is the same story for a lot of women I have worked with - so many think that they need to cover more of their skin than they really need to. My philosophy is that you don't need to totally mask your face. Instead, I believe that you should concentrate on making the most out of the 30, 50 or 70 per cent of your skin which is great - embellish it with gorgeous blush, clever highlighting and eye-popping colour. Using these techniques, you are detracting attention away from your problem areas and tricking the eye into thinking that you have amazing skin!
It's also important to evaluate and look after the quality of your skin - after all, acne is a passing phase. Again, I've worked with people who might not suffer from acne, yet the quality of their skin has been poorer than someone who does.
When shooting this film, Madeline was taken aback when I told her how good her skin was - while she sees the acne, what I see is skin that's fresh and a beautiful colour with enviable natural luminosity. The way I proceeded to make her up is again the way I would make up the majority of people I work with who suffer from blemished skin, and something that you can emulate in your own routine.
I believe that you should always start off with a light base which really emphasises the beauty of your skin, one that makes it gorgeously dewy and glowing. Try not to worry about the spots - these should be an afterthought to making the rest of the skin look great.
Most importantly, it's really essential that you take time to find the products that work for you, whether that is foundation or concealer, and learn to blend it only into the areas where you need it. Colour and texture of product is so important, it need to blend in seamlessly. Of course this is a lot more time consuming than simply slapping foundation or concealer all over your face, but I think that by doing it this way, and by spending a bit more time on your routine, you can achieve a better and more natural overall look. Plus, your skin is saved from being caked in make-up that it doesn't really need!
After filming this tutorial I managed to persuade Madeline to let me try out a 60s -inspired make-up look on her which I will be posting later this week - make sure you keep an eye out for it and you will be able to see how some gorgeous highlighting and interest around the eyes helps to detract from your problem areas. Of course this doesn't have to be a 60s look, but hopefully it will give you an idea of how this technique works.
I've listed below some suggestions of products that I've found really useful when making up people with acne, so do have a look but remember that they key is to find the products that work for you and your skin.
Lisa Loves - My new favourite primer...that's not a primer!
As the heading suggests, this discovery was a bit of a happy accident. Cicaplast from La Roche-Posay is a brand new product that describes itself as an ‘Epidermal Repair Accelerator’ and is designed to hydrate and soothe the skin following minor dermatological procedures.
However, it’s also great to use if your skin is dry, irritated or flaky and is perfect for anyone with skin conditions like rosacea or acne with inflamed patches – I’ve actually just filmed a tutorial on the best way to use make-up to cover acne and Cicaplast was the perfect primer for really smoothing out my model’s skin.
This product is packed full of super-nurturing ingredients that soothe and protect the skin, fight inflammation and promote skin cell growth. It’s also a really lovely formulation – almost creamy in texture, and melts into the skin, making it a perfect pre-base product for problematic skin.
La Roche-Posay products are available in selected pharmacies and large Boots stores.
Lisa Loves - Embellishment of the Purple Variety...
Any regular viewers of my films will have noticed that I’m bit of a nail junkie and as such love to chop and change my nail colour – sometimes on a daily basis! So when I find a colour that I'm excited to keep re-painting with, it must be something special.
Leighton Denny’s Embellish Me is my current favourite and I’ve been wearing it without fail for the past week. It’s a gorgeous smoky aubergine colour which is perfect for Autumn and looks great against all the nude and camel fashions which are about in force.
As you can see from the photo the colour changes slightly in the light, going from deep aubergine to a bright grape shade. But the best thing about it is that even with just one coat (as I have on here) it gives full coverage and an impossibly glossy finish. It's super chic and really glamorous and if you love purple, I urge you to try it!
I can't stress enough the importance of a proper cleansing routine. Not removing make-up means congested skin which will lead to breakouts, puffiness around the eyes and fine lines – in short, proper cleansing ensures your skin looks younger and healthier for longer!
I never use wipes as I don't think that it's enough to simply wipe the surface of the skin. Instead, I believe you need to use lots of product and really work it into the make-up to make sure that it's being fully dissolved and removed. I also always double cleanse, once to remove make-up and twice to properly clean the skin. If you use your second cleanse as a time to really massage your face and neck this will also help to boost circulation, keeping your skin really healthy and glowing.
When removing your make-up, if you're wearing a bright lip colour I think it’s best to start with this to prevent it from smearing all over your face. Next, move onto the eyes, remembering that the surrounding skin is really thin and delicate, so you need to be especially gentle – there should be no rubbing or pulling on the skin.
The best and most efficient way to remove eye make-up is to soak a couple of pads in remover, then hold and pat them onto the eyes for a minute or so to soften and loosen the make-up. I do this in the film and you can see that all of my eye make-up comes off really quickly and easily in one sweep – false lashes included! – without any harsh rubbing or pulling.
Finally, take off your base. You can follow this with a quick rinse (I generally do this as I like the feel of water against my face after cleansing) and then your choice of toner (if you use one), serum and/or moisturiser. If you are using some kind of treatment facial wash (say for acne) use this in place of the second cleanse once all your make-up is off.
With the wide range of cleansing products out there, it can be tempting to spend a bit more on your skincare regime. But cleansers themselves shouldn’t be expensive if all they do is take off your make-up. The ones you can justify spending slightly more on are those that are more like treatments – any products which have high doses of vitamins or contain any special skin-boosting ingredients such as lactic acid. I have a lot of products like this that I use as a treatment once or twice a week, many of which I talk about in my Favourite Skin Products video.
I’ve used so many different kinds of cleansers so it’s really hard to narrow it down and talk about just a few, but these are my four current favourites:
Bioderma – Crealine (also known as Sensibio) H2O
I know that I’ve mentioned this product before (again in my Favourite Skincare Products video), but I’m using it again here because it’s one of my all time favourites! It’s a product that I’ve used for years and one that I always have in my kit as not only does it clean the skin really quickly, but it’s also extremely gentle so doesn’t aggravate skin, making it perfect to use when I’m working with models with different skin types, or if I’m doing a range of different looks and need to cleanse the model’s face in between each take.
Keraskin Esthetics – Huile Nudite
Oil cleansers are great to use on days when you’ve been wearing a lot of make-up and are also really effective at removing waterproof mascara – you can use it for your first cleanse and then follow with a lotion for your second. This one by Keraskin is slightly more expensive but, as I mentioned before, the formulation which is packed full of essential oils and omegas help justify the price. Plus it comes in a massive 400ml bottle so will last for ages, especially if you only use it when you are wearing lots of make-up. For days when you haven’t been wearing as much I also recommend their Lait cleansing milk – perfect for a deep down clean.
Shu Uemura also have an amazing range of oil cleansers which are suitable for all skin types. Their oils are really light so they leave your skin feeling really clean, refreshed and conditioned. www.shuuemura.co.uk
Alpha H – Balancing Cleanser
This is a brand which I’vestarted to really get into since trying their gorgeous facials. This Balancing Cleanser has a 3 in 1 action so removes all make-up including eye make-up, and it’s really light so leaves your skin feeling really fresh. Their Soothing and Calming Cleansing Gel is great if you have dry or sensitive skin. I can also strongly recommend their moisturisers and masks.
Purity Organic Skincare - Conditioning Cleansing Lotion - exclusive to Superdrug store nationwide and online
This is a new brand that I discovered quite recently and absolutely love. I think that it’s really important to try and use natural skincare and cleansers, and while this range is almost completely organic it’s got a really affordable price tag – most of the products are around £5-£8 which is so refreshing. Another great product in the range which I’ve been using is the Anti-aging Serum and Mask as a soothing face mask to hydrate my skin.
I've had lots of requests for this tutorial so I really hope you enjoy the film. Just remember that I’m wearing lots of make-up and so the routine is one that should only be carried out at night – you don’t need to go through this process in the morning. That is a different and much quicker kind of routine all together and another film in itself – so keep your eyes peeled!
Lisa Loves - The one about the make-up artist and the perfume
I met up with Mary Greenwell when we were both guests the Chanel couture show last year and she told me she was working on a perfume, my first reaction was wow, perfume not make-up?? As a legendary make-up artist I’d expected her to turn her hand to cosmetics but, typical of Mary, she doesn’t do what everyone expects and very much walks her own path.
Mary has played quite an influential part in my career. First as an inspiration when as a student I would pour over 80’s issues of Vogue which had Mary’s handiwork (usually on Cindy Crawford) on the cover and later when I started assisting her at London and Paris fashion weeks at the start of my career. During one of those times Mary gave us assistants a little speech that would shape my priorities, on a personal level, forever – (I’ll tell you about that another time).
The thing about Mary is that she’s an absolute perfectionist, her work completely flawless – she does Cate Blanchett for all her covers and red carpet appearances (enough said!) and, although many tried before her, it was Mary who turned the late Princess Diana’s look from 80’s Sloane ranger to modern fashion icon (see below).
Mary has impeccable taste in every aspect of her life, so I was expecting nothing less than the best from this her first perfume. The scent called Plum and has been two years in the making in partnership with fourth generation perfumer Francois Robert and is a Classic Chypre with a modern twist. Top notes of Plum, Blackcurrent, Peach, Bergamot and Lemon Blend, heart notes of Gardinia, Tuberose Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute, Rose Absolute and Jasmine Absolute with a base of Precious Woods, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Amber and White Musk.I noticed when I first tried it that is changed almost completely every minute until it finally settled into the base notes quite a while later.
The packaging is so much fun. Vibrant pink and green (a favourite make-up colour combo of mine) which reflects Marys love of colour and the classic simplicity of the bottle makes this a cult classic in the making.
This fragrance has a lot of personality and a very distinctive signature, reminiscent of the great classics. Fragrance is a very personal thing so I can’t promise you’ll like it but if you’re tired of mass produced fragrances and want something more niche, special and a bit different, head over to your nearest House Of Fraser where it is exclusively available, and get spritzed.
Mary is now on twitter so tweet her at https://twitter.com/MaryGreenwell
Eau de Parfum - (100ml) £90 (50ml) £60
Solid Parfum – (3g) £70
Purse Spray – (50ml) £25
Scented Candle – (180g) £36
Cate Blanchett photographed for British Vogue by Regan Cameron
HRH Diana Princesss of Wales photographed by Mario Testino
Make up by Mary Greenwell
Making up Gorgeous Anna J in Portofino
This month's issue of Glamour magazine features a gorgeous beauty story where I gave the make-up a sexy, womanly, grown-up spin - think red lips, black liner and creamy, flawless skin. I was lucky enough to work with the beautiful Anna Jagodzinska, who you’ll probably recognise as the face of Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue fragrance campaign. We shot the story in the equally beautiful Portofino Italy, which was the perfect backdrop for the looks I was creating.